We’re just pulling out of Ilulissat harbour. It’s around three pm. I’m feeling a bit rough from last night at Murphy’s bar where the local band played for us and the talent of Cape Farewell returned the favor. This was our “night out” and it was out there in a great way. Ilulissat is a settlement in Disko Bay and it’s a pretty groovy town. With this group of great people we are leaving an impression as well as an imprint wherever we go and that’s the interesting part, being able to sing and disco dance in Disko Bay with some townsfolk of a Greenlandic village is really part of how things are, and will become more of, in this crazy technology filled and fast moving world. With travel and the ability to go most places there is a real change of how we see ourselves in the world, beyond being able to see and experience great things, a new relationship between us is being forged. The outdoor climate as well as the way we live on this planet together is changing. Change is really in the air, politically and socially as well as literally. It’s exciting and it’s something really worth being involved in. This is the stuff that can push us into real evolution of mind and how we exist.
Our consumption is really vast and extreme but i have noticed here in the last couple of days that there is a real quality issue in our consumption of life and the goods we sell to ourselves. I’m lucky because i was invited here and i would never have questioned coming despite emitting carbon by doing so. It was just too great a thing not to do. Personally i feel as though the incredible and moving time that i have had on this boat so far will help me to lead a better life. I know that sounds cheesy but i think it’s true. Not only has it made my life better because of the great things i’ve seen but also because i am learning things that would be good to incorporate in to my life when i’m not traveling through the Arctic on a Russian vessel.
I must say that yesterday was one of the most action packed i have ever had and this whole trip has really presented to me a whole new sense of time and space. Never have I seen so many adults so happy at the same time. There were shouts of laughter and excitement when the humpback revealed itself to us without us even asking. The icebergs are ridiculously incredible, i can’t even get into it. Not only did we totally “do” the great town of Ilulissat but we fucking walked on and saw the most beautiful and intense part of the planet (probably because there isn’t a lot of people, and they’re mostly Greenlandic). It’s great to be here and i don’t think i will fully grasp the benefit for a while.
This post was published in the Independent on Friday 3rd October.
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8 Comments
Brad
Martha (honey), it’s good to see your words, thank you……
i miss the sound of your voice but i’ll take what i can get!
please keep writing when you can…..
i miss you
i love you
your husband,
Brad
PS all is fine in Brooklyn, i’ve made my list and and i’m checking it twice (more like a million times)
Deanna J
Thanks so much for your insight and honesty. I’m sitting less than a foot away from a garbage can full of paper that should be headed to the recycling bin rather than the dumpster out back. A couple of weeks ago, my ‘frowny’ face was snickered at as one of my fellow office workers disposed of atleast 50 sheets of paper he had just used to print on before realizing he didn’t need them afterall. He then proceeded to make the comment “Yeah we’re not very green around here.” That snide remark has intruded into my thoughts fairly regularly since then. I think Monday I’ll bring in a box labeled ‘paper please’ and spend the week convincing my coworkers to use that rather than their much easier accessed garbage cans under their desks. How can I so closely follow this trip and not do SOMETHING different? I am the reason the icebergs are melting, and I should be the one to do something about it. I’ve enjoyed reading all the blogs about this great and purposeful adventure, and I’m glad I finally got to read YOUR thoughts. Continue when you can!
Brad
martha i got your emails and replied to them, did you get them?
naan
yo martha! i once saw an iceberg off south coast of thor’s bay newfoundland. it was blue like toothpaste..ephemeral like teeth.
wish i could have been at your ’soirée’ in illulisat.
i’m putting a link to your blog on my site.
xx
Campbell
Hey Martha ! Words writ by you even North of 60 are the next best thing to seeing you. Say Hi to both Flora & Fauna.
Yr Idiot Friend
Campbie™
kate
it’s your mother….i’ve tried several times but my thing tells me i’ve got cookies or something that sounds good but isn’t.
so i’m on anna’s laptop.
just want to say i’m OK…had scan, maybe get results tuesday. by then you’ll be back on the real greenland – england – the land that is indeed green.
i miss you a lot and am very happy that you have the chance to see this old world in a new light(we were in that light about 10,000 years ago) – you must feel pretty powerless and small looking at all that big ice…nature’s a big thing! i hope you’re getting some warmth from the company you’re keeping…artists aren’t a bad lot, but then again neither are scientists – i’ve known a few and i will have to admit, they’re a little crazier – a lot crazier in some cases! maybe it’s all those readings!…so on that not i’ll leave you with a little song – to the tune of “when the moon hits your eye..”
when..the…ice starts to break
leaving rocks in it’s wake
that’s a moraine
when a mound is in sight
’cause the ice is in flight
that’s a moraine
etc…
all my love and dos vidania to the crew
(when i was a young girl, we went on a coupla russian boats, but all we ever did was drink plum brandy out of unmarked bottles and smoke a lot of papirushkas – of course that was back in the 60’s when the war was very very cold!)
Glenn Nuotio
Hello from Ottawa!
What a great adventure.
and a great idea.
and a great blog. i’ve loved reading it. keeps my mind moving ahead I hope …
I’m glad the trip was so inspiring and safe.
Hope we’re in contact again soon!
Tell your mom, bro and sis to go to Newfoundland and see icebergs whenever you want in the summer!
xo
glenn
cath stringer
Have just discovered your music and downloaded some videos you made for borders…liked rufus originally which led me to you and now you! Watched Graham Norton show and you sang and mentioned this trip…I just typed in your name and russian boat artic and so YOU have led me to this site…and spawned a greater environmental concern re: climate change in the process! So you see..it worked! Quite apart from your own awareness you have inspired mine through your trip…AND I plan to buy your latest music! THANK-YOU!