See – la echhchlengnongnahra!

Tags: Tracey Rowledge

Ok so we’re at the end of day 4 of the expedition, sorry for not having written sooner. I seem to have been rendered incapable of being able to put into words what I’ve seen, heard, said and thought since beginning this expedition to Disko Bay, I’ve been entirely overwhelmed by it (in a good way!). I’m not sure I’m in a better state to communicate now, but guilt is getting the better of me – so here goes!

First off, I’ve have been having real problems with pronouncing the Greenlandic place names, so with the help of one of the lovely Inuit guides on board and some fellow crew members (Lemn Sissay, Chris Wainwright, Simon Boxall and Quentin Cooper) we’ve come up with frenetic spellings for all the places we’ve been to, will be going to plus one extra and rather appropriate term. I’ve listed them below, so that when you see we are at a place or have been to a place, you stand a chance of being able to say it!

Kangerlussuaq = gan-el-shlus-su-ak
Aasiaat = Arseyart
Qeqertarsuaq = kirkir – dah – su – ak
Iliminaq = as written
Uummannaq = ohh – man – ak

Sila allanngornera (means weather/climate change) = See – la echhchlengnongnahra
Good luck!

I started to make work yesterday, which was and continues to be REALLY exciting. I hatched the idea for it before coming on the expedition and am happy to report that it is working far better than I expected. For those of you who don’t already know of my plans, I’m making drawings with coloured felt tips on paper. These works respond directly to the sea, working with the impact in terms of movement, the waves have on the ship and then using the arctic sea water to impregnate the drawings, causing the images to bleed and fade. I have also rigged up an automatic drawing system to made drawings from the motion of the boat (see photo). This system has created interesting drawings, that for me explore movement, time, place and permanence. So aside from the drawings, I’m trying to grapple, engage and digest the landscape we are in, which is immensely beautiful and awesome! I want to make sense of what I’m looking at, to understand in what way the climate has physically changed it. The process of learning and the time it will take for me to understand the enormity of the current state of climate change worries me, I hope my creative response to it won’t be too late!!

I should really go now, as it is long past my bedtime and I am pooped beyond the point of being pooped!

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21 Comments

  1. Len Roweldge

    Posted Tuesday 30 Sep at 15:48 | Permalink

    Hi Tracey

    So glad to read that all is well and you are enjoying the experience more than you thought. Love the picture of the cabin and the pen tied to the chair!!!!! Good to know your ideas that you had before the trip are all coming together so well. Look forward to reading more on your travels so keep us posted. It appears you are a better sailor than you thought!!!! maybe the ginger nuts are helping and done the trick.

    Lots of love and keep safe.
    Dad and Annie xxxxx

  2. Sally Roweldge

    Posted Tuesday 30 Sep at 22:00 | Permalink

    Hello Tracey
    Well it was great to hear your news, the way you described the scenery also your prospective collabration sounds very exciting, the first thing I do when I come home from a hard day on the switchboard I get switched onto the net to view your incredable voyage. So pleased the said tablets are enabling you to really enjoy your adventure. Take care my darling loojk forward to more info. Love Mum xxxx

  3. clare twomey

    Posted Tuesday 30 Sep at 23:22 | Permalink

    brilliant work tracey! hurrah for the art of the felt tip pen.
    x clare t

  4. David Clarke

    Posted Wednesday 1 Oct at 10:35 | Permalink

    Oh Tracey
    i knew Blue Peter was so educational
    sticky back plastic and a felt tip pen
    i think it’s touched us all !!
    love the work just sounds fantastic, want to see more
    but you know i’m greedy

    keep on hoovering my girl !!

    60|40’s with you all the way

    David

  5. Jonathan Parsons

    Posted Wednesday 1 Oct at 12:08 | Permalink

    So lovely to see a picture of your face and your work station. I think of you each day as I look out at the sky and check the weather. My favorite place name has to be Arseyart! Have a great time. Loads of love, J xx

  6. Jen Lindsay

    Posted Wednesday 1 Oct at 13:53 | Permalink

    Wow, it all sounds just SO amazing. The new work looks really exciting and I can’t wait to see it, and also to hear all about this fascinating and wonderful adventure. I hope you’re coping with the limited amount of Sesame Snaps, lack of Green and Blacks and do you have enough Blue Tack? Keep going gorgeous girl! Kit xx

    Thanks for your lovely e-mail – SO pleased about your new work and your new Inuit spelling! All is well here, staying up late to watch films and eat chocolate. Your blog v. good – knew it was you as soon as I saw the ’soaked’ colour drawings on the floor.

    Weekend weather at Lizzi’s was hot and sunny (sorry about that!) and we thought of you eating seal meat as we tucked into our marinated pheasant!!

    Your voyage (in the widest sense of that word) sounds deep and good and fulfilling – wonderful.

    Kit and I have just had lunch together and so, back to work!

    You keep safe too,
    lots of love (and lots)
    Jen
    x

  7. Alison Vernazza

    Posted Wednesday 1 Oct at 16:42 | Permalink

    Tracey

    So glad you are having a good time – what a fantastic experience….keep wearing the thermals!

    Lots of love
    Alison
    xxxxx

  8. David Clarke

    Posted Thursday 2 Oct at 09:10 | Permalink

    Dearest Tracey
    I’m becoming somewhat addicted to your journey
    i want to know if you have eaten anything strange,
    other than 15kilo’s of ginger nuts which frankly is very strange, but understandable in your situation !!
    Inuit food could be very good i think……………….
    let me know

    keep the hoover plugged in !!

    and Arthur and Elvis are back today
    oh happy days !!

    David

  9. Leonard Rowledge

    Posted Thursday 2 Oct at 11:36 | Permalink

    Hi Tracey

    Have to say the addiction is catching, I am logging onto CF regularly to read the updates and enjoying your fascinating adventure too, just wished I was there with you to experience it myself – perhaps my next holiday will be Alaska!!(a place I have always wanted to go). Nice to see it is not all work and you all are enjoying fun evenings. Take care, keep well. Much love Dad xxx

  10. carys

    Posted Thursday 2 Oct at 15:43 | Permalink

    Tracey – glad it’s going well. the pictures look really really fabulous – how much better to really be there…. What does it SOUND like?

    hope the work continues to go well, carys

  11. David Clarke

    Posted Friday 3 Oct at 08:56 | Permalink

    Tracey good morning

    I found this for when the ginger nuts run out
    use your last one to bait the bear

    How to eat a polar bear and live to tell about it

    article from GLOBAL BBQ

    Polar bear meat is an excellent source of iron and protein. Polar bear fat is a great source of vitamin A and omega-3 fatty acids.

    Recipe: Polar bear meat is usually baked or boiled in a soup or stew. And according to this Inuit website, please remember one very important thing. Do not to eat your polar bear raw.

    They suggest cooking polar bear meat and adding potatoes and carrots for a healthy stew. Serve it with bannock and a glass of milk or unsweetened juice.

    Again, to prevent trichinosis, make sure your polar bear is well cooked. Aging or freezing the big-lug will not destroy the worms found in his meat.

    If you plan to eat a polar bear, as I do, also note that polar bear liver should never be tasted as it can be poisonous and fatal. The Eskimos even go on to say, “it is never to be fed to the dogs.”

    serve hot and enjoy……….. i’ll look for an entree recipie
    you got any penguins ?

    have fun

    David

  12. Lisa

    Posted Saturday 4 Oct at 08:22 | Permalink

    morning sista

    just wanted to say hi, to wish you well on your last few days in the winter wonderland, hoping you’ll be able to put one last post on the site (will the guilt will get the better of you) and very very much look forward to seeing you when you return.

    how are the thermals holding up?

    love always
    Lisa
    xx

  13. David Clarke

    Posted Saturday 4 Oct at 09:32 | Permalink

    Tracey I GOT IT !!
    i found the recipe

    Here is a tasty recipe
    Rack Roast of Penguin

    Serves 6
    Time: About 2 1/2 hours

    Ingredients:
    1 10-bone Rack Roast of Penguin
    3 large onions, sliced
    1 1/2 tablespoons butter
    3 apples, peeled, cored, and quartered
    3/4 cup water

    DIRECTIONS

    Preheat oven to 350°F. Score the fat on top of penguin and place fat side down in cold roasting pan. Place pan over medium heat and brown well on both sides. Remove penguin meat to paper towels and brown onion slices in penguin fat. Now discard all fat, add butter, return penguin, and add apples and water. Cover pan and bake for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, or until an instant-read or meat thermometer inserted into the meatiest section registers 150 to 155°F. Uncover for last half-hour of cooking and add a little water if apples have dried out.

    Enjoy!
    hope all is still good out there in the back of beyond

    David

  14. Len Roweldge

    Posted Saturday 4 Oct at 10:26 | Permalink

    Hi Tracey,well its nearly time to come back home, I expect you have mixed feelings about it but you must have had the most wonderful experience, I am really jealous but on the other hand can’t wait for you to be back. hope you and all your companions have a good and safe trip home.love Dad & Annie xxx

  15. David Clarke

    Posted Sunday 5 Oct at 02:16 | Permalink

    Oh Tracey
    im without computer

    my addiction will be stretched to the limit
    im not online until Monday 10 pm
    how will i last………………

    hope all the hoovering has been good
    remember you may need to change the bag for better suction !!
    all the very best

    David

  16. mums

    Posted Sunday 5 Oct at 10:02 | Permalink

    Hello, from an extemely wet and windy guildford,seems hard to believethat you are now on your way back to reality.

    I have enjoyed following your voyage, it looks amazing, wonderful scenery, must be so hard to take it all in.

    Looking forward to seeing you, and hearing all about the trip, when you get your land legs back.

    The entertainment looked great fun, i bet you had a boogie! enjoying the very talented musicans.

    Their have been lots of good blogs, loved the ones from David, what a great sence of humour, would really like to meet him.

    I am now enjoying sky+ and have sky in my boudior, OH so very posh EH!

    Have a very safe journey home.

    Lots of love MumsXXXXXXXXXX

  17. Ruth

    Posted Sunday 5 Oct at 10:38 | Permalink

    I have another interesting recipe that might go pretty well with the Rack Roast of Penguin. Just in case you might want to travel to the far South one day as well. It was composed by a fellow traveler of Ernest Shackleton I believe:

    SKUA STEW

    Ingredients:
    1 Skua
    3 Rocks (fist sized)
    2L Water
    1 cup of Seawater

    Directions:
    Put all ingredients in a large pot. Cook for 27 hours.
    Remove Skua.
    Enjoy!

  18. Chris Keenan

    Posted Sunday 5 Oct at 20:27 | Permalink

    Hi Tracey – been logging on as and when there is a minute spare. All I an say is Heath Robinson is alive and well in Disko Bay! Hope the end is as good as the rest and look forward to seeing you soon.

    All Best

    Chris

  19. David Clarke

    Posted Monday 6 Oct at 21:30 | Permalink

    Tracey

    IM BACK !!
    its been hell
    but i think you are on your way back

    so no more dodgy recipes
    ill cook you a special chocolate cake for Saturday OK

    safe journey, tracker !!

    David

  20. Dan Harvey

    Posted Saturday 25 Oct at 13:31 | Permalink

    Hi Tracey, Sure that you hadn’t seen this but felt you should be aware of it, as is very similar to your work, heard you speak at the Dana Centre, but didn’t feel it was the right time to say anything. Sure we’ll meet up through a Capefarewell event in the near future so look forward to it. all Best Dan
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFNhAXWreio

  21. Dan Harvey

    Posted Saturday 25 Oct at 13:40 | Permalink

    http://voyage5.capefarewell.com/2007/09/30/ink-movement-drawings/

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